One Day Guide in ANTSIRANANA, Madagascar! (Cruise Edition)

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• Geography: Antsiranana, also known as Diego Suarez, is a port city in northern Madagascar.

• Population: 82,937

• Currency: Malagasy Ariary; Currency Converter

• Cruise Port: Google Map Location

• Tender Port: Yes

• Best Time to Visit: April to October

While visiting this port on the Norwegian Cruise Line (Dawn) on February 22nd, 2024, we had about 8 hours to explore, as we arrived at 8 AM and had to leave by 5 PM. Being a tender port, it only has a single dock for one tender at a time. To ensure an early arrival at the port, it's advisable to board the first tender. The port is a little better in terms of condition in comparison to Nosy Be. We were greeted with a warm welcome from the locals. It operates as a working port, with numerous containers and vendors and tour operators. The port doesn't seem fully geared towards tourism yet. It's important to remain cautious and beware of pickpockets due to the crowded areas you'll need to navigate.

Antsiranana, Madagascar used to serve as the capital of the Merina Kingdom and was referred to as Diego-Suarez until 1975. Established in 1928 by French explorer Jean-Baptiste Du Tertre, the city showcases architectural styles greatly influenced by the French. Additionally, it played a significant role as a trading hub for spices, ivory, and slaves.

We arranged our tour on our own and it was operated by a company called Dodi Lemur Tour. They didn't meet our expectations. Initially, they quoted $115 per person, which included a picnic. However, at the last minute, they expressed concerns about potential risks if the boat didn't dock, so they canceled the food provision and requested that we bring our own food from the ship (which is actually not allowed). Consequently, they reduced the price by $15 per person, making the final cost $100 per person. To secure a spot on this tour, a deposit of $15 per person must be sent via the Remitly app in advance. It's important to note that no refunds will be provided if your ship fails to dock.

That day, numerous 4WD vehicles from different companies were in operation, each carrying four adults in a car but none of the cars had air conditioning. We had to rely on the natural hot wind for ventilation. moreover, leaving the windows down all the time was not feasible due to bugs and dust from the road. Along the journey, you would pass through many villages where the children. They were all super friendly and would wave or even approach the car to greet you. This experience offers a glimpse into the reality of life in a developing country. It is also a local tradition to offer Zebu to a bride's family as these animals symbolizes wealth. A man who wishes to marry must present three Zebus to the bride's family. The value of each Zebu ranges from $150 to $500 depending on its size. In some areas, proving one's manhood may involve stealing a Zebu.

The roads leading to Amber National Park were in worse condition compared to those in Nosy Be. It took us 2.5 hours to reach the park and the same amount of time to return to the ship. Despite having only about 2 hours in the park, it was more than enough. Since most bookings from the cruise ship were for this location as there weren't many other attractions on the island, the park was crowded with people and lacked interesting things to see. Given that the animals in the park are all wild, spotting them largely depends on luck. Nevertheless, our tour guide was excellent and managed to point out various small creatures such as frog species, spiders, chameleons, birds, and geckos. We were fortunate to see two wild lemurs, although they were not as friendly as those in Nosy Be.

It is recommended to wear hiking shoes for your one-hour walk in this area, as the paths are muddy, slippery, and lined with tree vines. There are two waterfalls on the site, but swimming is not permitted. The sacred waterfall is more beautiful than the other one. We wore long pants and shirts in case of bugs and mosquitos but there weren't as many as we were expecting to see. Remember to bring a hat, sunblock, and bug spray. There are several bathrooms available, but they are quite dirty and no toilet papers were provided.

There weren't many restaurants on the island that seemed appealing enough to risk upsetting our stomachs, so it would be wise to bring your own food for the tour rather than trying the local cuisine.

During our return journey, we made a stop for a photo opportunity and caught sight of the sacred island. The area was crowded with vendors, making it less enjoyable. After that, we got back in the car and headed to our final destination to see a baobab tree. It was different from what I had pictured, as the tour guide clarified that the baobabs that we have seen through online photos are located in the drier South. The ones here are a different species. I found the sight of two chameleons mating to be a more captivating photo opportunity than the tree.

Overall, I didn't feel that the 5-hour bumpy road trip to spend an hour hiking in the park was worth it, especially considering the hefty cost of the ship's excursion. Even at $100 per person, it felt more like enduring the trip rather than enjoying the experience. Perhaps in the future, if the road is improved, and only if you truly appreciate nature and a leisurely hike (if you have extra time), it might be worth considering. It is hoped that this island will invest more in improving its infrastructure and enhancing its tourism offerings to cater better to visitors. Personally, I am not inclined to revisit anytime soon...

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